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These two models look nearly identical, but one took twice the time to print and wasted nearly a half a kilo of filament. And the reason why? Well, it might just explain why Bamboo's most expensive enclosed printer is actually cheaper than their cheapest if you print enough. Today, we're doing the math. Time, purge, cost, everything. By the end of this video, you'll know exactly which of these enclosed bamboo printers is right for you. And hey, if you're not sold on bamboo at all, stick around to the end of the video because I'll recommend a couple of alternatives that deliver amazing results for the price. On paper, both printers are Corxy and fully enclosed, but this H2D is about $2,000 and the P1S is just about $4.99. Um, that's a $1,500 difference. Now, these prices are at the time of filming, of course, so things could change. Both use the exact same AMS type system for multiolor. Both support Bamboo Studio and both can be set up in under 20 minutes out of the box. The P1S feels like it's more than just an entry CXY machine from Bamboo. It's fast, compact, and gets you printing multiolor reliably without breaking the bank. The H2D though feels different. It's quieter, heavier, there's glass instead of plastic, and it just looks and feels like a machine that's built to run 24/7. And visually, the H2D is stunning. those flush glass viewing windows on both sides, clean, minimal, elegant, making it the best looking machine Bamboo has released so far. In fact, they're already being copied by other manufacturers. The P1S was revolutionary when it launched, and honestly, it still holds up. But Bamboo managed to oneup themselves again with the H2D's aesthetic, especially in a studio environment. It's beautiful to film. One will do enough and more to get the job done. the other. It's loaded with far more features and conveniences and really is the best 3D printer that exists in our market. Now, in their most basic form, they're both enclosed Corxy printers from Bamboo, but they serve very different types of users. With that, let's test whether the price gap holds up in real results. The single biggest difference, the HTD has two nozzles. That means significantly reduced purge waste out of the back depending on which nozzles or filaments it is switching between. Think about it this way. If two of the most common colors are black and white on this Stormtrooper, then one color can be loaded in the left nozzle and the other in the right nozzle, and it doesn't need to purge waste. It just uses the Prime tower to make sure the filament is flowing between changes. And beyond extrusion, this thing is a spec monster. Larger build volume, chamber heater, better internals, hardened hotend assembly, sensors everywhere. If you're thinking long term, the H2D might be the most futurep proofed machine Bamboo has ever released. But does the futurep proof mean value? Let's see how these two actually perform with the same print job. >> Look, sir, droids. Let me see your identification. These aren't the droids we're looking for. >> Hey, and if you found this video helpful so far, hit that like and subscribe button. We're a small channel. Helps us out a lot. Both printers printed this Chibi Stormtrooper from Chibi STL using the Bamboo AMS and Polymaker Polyite PLA Pro. Same filament, same color assignments, same settings. Literally, the only difference was the printer. Oh, and a big thanks to Polymaker for sponsoring this video. There are links to this exact filament on the screen and down in the description if you want to go check them out. And if you want to save 15% on your first order, use LM show first try and I'll have that in the description as well. The P1S took one day, 17 hours, and swapped filament 799 times, purging each time. The H2D took just 21 hours, and swapped filament only once, and wasted only.16 of a gram. Ultimately, the dual nozzle configuration of the H2D saved almost 500 g of filament from being wasted. One of the benefits of the H2D is that it can intelligently determine which colors should be on which nozzles to maximize efficiency, ultimately reducing both filament waste and time. In this case, it determined that white should be on the external spool holder. That's the left nozzle. And for the right nozzle, black should be in slot one on the AMS and silver in slot two. But here's the thing, the final prints, they're nearly identical. And that says a lot. not about the H2D, but about how good Bamboo's entire lineup is. The P1S might be the cheapest, but it's no slouch. So, if both printers make stunning parts, is the P1S actually the better deal? Now, let's run the numbers. Future loyal here. During the edit, I wanted to make sure that I mentioned that neither of these machines are perfect. So during the initial setup of the Stormtrooper prints on both the P1S actually had a tangle in the AMS that it caused itself and that that means that the printer didn't even start for another 8 or 10 hours after we had left the studio for the night into the next day. And the H2D it uh had a spaghetti detection false positive error during a Twitch live stream where it thought it detected a clogged purge shoot um when that really wasn't an issue. Everything I said nice about the Bamboo Lab H2D, I want you to forget that >> cuz it is angry and flashing red at us. >> Flashing red. That's not a good sign. >> Anybody know what it's saying? Either of these machines, they're they're mechanical. They will have failures, but it's really not about that. I would say I think it's more important to focus on what these machines get right and how often they get it right. They're just tools and uh these things can happen. All right, back to the video. Let's break this down. I saved every bit of purge from both of these prints, and it's actually pretty shocking. This is what the P1S wasted, and this is what the H2D needed. That's almost 500 g difference every time you run a job like this. At roughly $20 per kilo, that's about $9.40 in waste per print. Multiply that by just 50 prints a year. That's 470 in lost filament gone. And that's just the material. Now, let's talk time. The P1S took nearly twice as long to finish the same print. 41 hours versus 21 on the H2D. Even if your time isn't billable, your machine's availability still matters. And runtime matters, too. These machines weren't designed to run forever. failures are baked into them and the longer that they run continuously, the sooner you'll experience one. So, let's do the math. $1,500 divided by $9.40 per print equals about $160 multiolor jobs. That's your break even point just on wasted material. If you print three or four models in a week, you'll get there in a year. But if you're only printing once a month, the P1S starts to look like the smarter choice. So, which one is the better deal? Well, that depends. And that's exactly why we need to talk about who these printers are actually for. So, now that we've seen how these machines stack up, specs, print time, cost, let's talk about who they're actually built for. Because depending on what you need, your answer might flip again. You can see how this isn't about which printer is better, but which one is better for you. And even now, I still use each in the studio for very different projects all of the time. Let me know in the comments which one you would pick. Are you leaning towards the value with the P1S or are you investing long-term with the H2D? I'd love to hear what you're thinking about. Let me give you my personal take and maybe that'll help settle this. I didn't expect this, but after running the numbers, the H2D is one of the few printers that could actually pay for itself just from time and filament savings. But let's zoom out. The real cost of the printer isn't just the machine. It's your time, your materials, and how often you can trust it to do the job while you're focused on something else. The P1S, it punches so far above its price point that it's almost unfair. It gives you access to the bamboo ecosystem, AMS multiolor printing, and excellent print quality. But the HDD pushes into another category. It's quieter. It's larger. It's smarter about how it handles multiolor jobs. And honestly, it is the nicest 3D printer that has ever shown up here in the studio. From build quality and print results to user experience, it just cannot be beat right now. I've had moments where the P1S struggled with filament retractions on long jobs or needed a calibration when something just felt off with the results. Meanwhile, this H2D just keeps going. Even with the false spaghetti warning during the Twitch live stream, it picked right back up and finished the job beautifully. But again, that's my use case, and yours might be completely different. I'd actually love to do a follow-up live stream where we talk about the cost of ownership, long-term, maintenance, upgrades, and slicer settings, and even real world tips. Um, if that sounds helpful, drop a comment and uh we'll make it happen. And while we're at it, if you've got either of these machines, let me know what your experience has been. What did you love? What surprised you? Or what would you change? During one of our live Twitch streams, we asked viewers which machine they'd buy if they had the budget for either, and the responses were split right down the middle. Some folks valued print speed and dual extrusion. Others said they'd take the P1S and spend the difference on filament or multiple P1S's. And honestly, both answers are probably right. Being able to purchase four P1S's to a single H2D makes a huge difference in your home print farm or a production environment. You will still have the waste if you're using the AMS often. But if you don't and only print single color, you'll have four times the production capacity. And if you have a complete machine failure or are down waiting on parts, you'll still have machines that are pumping out prints. That's the cool thing about this space. There isn't one perfect answer. It's just what fits you best. So, H2D versus P1S, $2,000 versus $4.99. Which is the better printer? The truth is, both are incredible. One is more accessible, the other more advanced, but both give you amazing results if you understand their strengths. And like I promised earlier, for those of you who aren't quite ready to jump into the bamboo ecosystem, here are two other printers that I highly recommend. The Elgus Centuri Carbon and the Any Cubic Cobra S1. Both offer incredible value and performance and I've made videos on each of those and you should check them out. I'll have links in the description. And to all of our YouTube members and Patreon supporters, thank you. You make this possible and we couldn't do this without you and I'm deeply grateful for your support. I hope you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching and I will see you in the next one.